A Bunch of Bologna
Published August 2021
By Greg Elwell | Photos by Lori Duckworth | 3 min read
The Senator's Smoked Bologna Sandwich from Jamil's Steakhouse in Oklahoma City comes fully loaded. Photo by Lori Duckworth
For many Americans, bologna has a first name; it’s O-S-C-A-R. Despite being on a first-name basis with their lunchmeat, they often take it for granted. Bologna is for making a quick sandwich to shove in a kid’s lunchbox; it’s not something grown-ups with discerning palates would eat. Oklahomans, however, respectfully disagree.
In 2012, Food Network Magazine named the Senator’s Smoked Bologna sandwich at Jamil’s Steakhouse in Oklahoma City the sandwich that best represented the state. It’s thick with smoked bologna—a full nine ounces finished with a quick char on the grill—and covered in barbecue sauce with the added crunch of lettuce, pickle, red onion, and juicy tomato, all on a pretzel bun. Bologna has long been a favorite in barbecue restaurants, as well, much to the confusion of some.
In Davis, Smokin’ Joe’s Rib Ranch is best known for infusing ribeye steaks with deep, smoky flavors and serving up meltingly tender pulled pork. But like many pitmasters in Oklahoma, they also create a popular local delicacy: smoked bologna. Manager Edgar Rodriguez started working at Smokin’ Joe’s eight years ago, but he’s originally from California and says bologna doesn’t hold the same cachet there as it does here.
“I never really cared for it when I was little,” he says. “When I started working here, I didn’t even try it for the first few years. Now, I probably eat it two or three times a week.”
Smokin’ Joe’s uses John Morrell brand bologna, rubs it in fat, covers it in dry rub, and smokes it in mesquite for a little more than two hours before slicing it up and grilling it to order. It may not be the most popular item on the menu, but the restaurant sells about fifty pounds of bologna on weekends, Rodriguez says.
“It’s an acquired taste, but for people who love smoked bologna, very few leave here unsatisfied,” he says.